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Hogtown Stak
Rogers Centre, Toronto
Cost: $18 (Canadian dollars)
Estimated calories: 1,190
Before opening Cherry Street Bar-B-Que last year, Toronto's Lawrence La Pianta had been a barbecue hobbyist, smoking in cook-offs for 20 years. So we asked him to smell what's cooking at Blue Jays games, where they sling the Hogtown Stak, an offering that pays homage to Toronto's early history as a hub of pork processing.
How does this dish represent Toronto?
It's got a strong Canadian influence. Ballparks all seem to have a signature dish, and that's what I think the Jays did with this and its take on poutine with the pulled pork and the gravy.
This fits right in with the burgeoning barbecue scene up there. How did this get started?
I think regardless of where you are, the Food Network sparked a frenzy for food in general. But Aaron Franklin [of Franklin Barbecue] in Austin has spawned a lot of places doing high-level barbecue. Now there are a few of us who have been cooking barbecue for a while up here who have places where people can come in, sit down and eat. Everybody is elevating the game.
You've described your style as "Toronto-style barbecue." What does that mean?
It's salt-and-pepper BBQ for the most part. Most of my influence comes from the people I've cooked with. One of my biggest influences is Wayne Mueller at Louie Mueller Barbecue (in Taylor, Texas). Wayne is definitely a mentor to me, along with Billy Durney at Hometown [in Brooklyn]. Anything beef-related is very Texas-influenced for me, the stuff that I fell in love with when I tasted it.
How do you see this playing as ballpark food?
It's such a big part of the experience. You're going to indulge and make an event out of it. The food should be substantial and filling. You're not going to eat that poutine dish at home -- unless you're on a mission.
HOGTOWN STAK
INGREDIENTS
PORK BRINE
1 gallon water
1 cup kosher salt
1 cup brown sugar
2 tbsp. black pepper, whole
6 cloves garlic
2 tbsp. coriander seeds
2 tbsp. cumin seeds
1 tbsp. juniper berries
2 bay leaves
6-8-lb. pork butt
INSTRUCTIONS
Using a thick-bottom pot over medium heat, bring water to a boil. Add all ingredients except pork, let simmer for 20 minutes. Cool the liquid and refrigerate for at least 3 hours. Add pork to liquid and let brine for at least 24 hours.
SMOKED PORK BUTT DRY RUB
Brined pork butt
2 tbsp. onion powder
2 tbsp. garlic powder
2 tbsp. sugar
1 tbsp. black pepper
1 tbsp. salt
1½ tsp. cayenne pepper
Rinse brine off pork with cold water, pat dry. Cover in dry rub evenly. Smoke for 14 hours at 200 degrees. Pull meat.
BBQ GRAVY
½ qt. BBQ sauce
2 qts. store-bought brown gravy
½ lb. smoked bacon, crispy, chopped
Bring gravy to a boil. Add BBQ sauce and chopped bacon. Bring to a boil, let simmer for 15 minutes.
ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS
9 lbs. french fries
4½ lbs. grilled sausages, sliced
TO ASSEMBLE
Top 1½ cups of fries with ¾ cup of pulled pork and ¾ cup of sausage. Top with ¾ cup of BBQ gravy. Prepare a soft place to land.
Makes 12 servings
Recipe courtesy Aramark.
