Earlier this week, Jordan Brand unveiled the Air Jordan XXXII in Italy, the newest signature shoe in the iconic line. Taking both literal and loose inspiration from the Air Jordan II, which was originally manufactured in Italy for its 1986 release, the XXXII looks to serve as a modern expression of Jordan's now-classic second shoe.
"We've always explored new materials and technology to create the best game shoe. That was evident when we went to Italy to make the II, and it still rings true today," the Jordan Brand said in a statement. "On the XXXII, we challenged our designers to push the limits while staying true to the brand's DNA."
Italy is renowned for its history of sports cars, leading innovation and handcrafted luxury designer items. Each of those elements served as points of inspiration for Tate Kuerbis, the newest Air Jordan's designer. The XXXII is Kuerbis' fourth Air Jordan design, and naturally, getting the input and involvement of the brand's namesake muse is always the starting point of the process.
"We're lucky enough to go MJ's house," Kuerbis said. "For me, I love to go to his garage, and he has all kinds of Italian sports cars in his garage. It seems like he gets a new one every year [laughs]. I don't get to be around those cars very often. When I do, I like to spend time in there, open the door and sit inside. One time, he told me I could get in there and drive, but I didn't want to have that Ferris Bueller moment and wreck it [laughs]."
While the sports car influence can be found along the stitch pattern of the Flyknit upper, which drafts off of the steering wheel stitch found in Ferraris, it was still the original Air Jordan II that helped inform several of the XXXII's most distinct design cues.
Wings Logo
The Peter Moore-designed original Wings logo first debuted on the inaugural Air Jordan I model. After also being featured on the Air Jordan II, it was shelved for 30 years as a featured icon on an Air Jordan shoe, with the Jumpman logo taking over for the long haul. Following up on the XXXI's Wings logo collar placement last year, the XXXII once again incorporates the aerial runway-inspired badge, this time boldly, in an identical tongue location as the II.
Toe Box Shape
Throughout the history of Air Jordan shoes, Jordan has routinely requested a "clean toe." With that insight in mind, Tate Kuerbis looked to carry on the spirit of the II's swooping toe shape, executed in today's Flyknit construction for an even more precise look. "We have a legacy of amazing game shoes to be inspired by. Really, it's about a gesture that feels new," Kuerbis said. "For this one, it was about capturing the essence, but not necessarily the exact same."
Ribbed Heel counter
While the XXXII's ribbed heel was ultimately inspired by the II, the real push to add to the character of the shoe came from Jordan himself. The six lines on the piece also serve as a subtle nod to Jordan's six NBA championships.
"We had a sample that just had one flat piece on the back and we showed him," Kuerbis said. "I said, 'I think we figured it out.' He goes, 'You know, I think you guys are close, but it just doesn't have that special touch to it. Doing something fun or having a dynamic piece on the back would be cool.' I explored that part of the shoe for a super-long time, and for me, that heel piece became the expressive piece."
Iguana-Texture Collar Panel
When the Air Jordan II first launched in the late 1980s, basketball shoes across the industry were made of foam midsoles and leather panels. With its made-in-Italy ethos at the forefront, the II ushered in luxury materials, crafted in iguana and reptile skins along the shoe's key collar panel. For the XXXII, the brand looked to inject that same luxury spirit, dressing the shoe's collar in rich suedes and a similar iguana textile.
"We really wanted to capture the essence of the II and the fact that it was made in Italy," Kuerbis said. "We wanted to be able to say that this shoe looks superbly faceted, beautiful when you pull it out of the box, and it just looks like luxury."
Nick DePaula is the creative director for Nice Kicks and former editor-in-chief of Sole Collector Magazine.
